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Rio Dulce, meaning sweet river

semi-overcast 34 °C
View 15 Countries in 8 Months on JEK's travel map.

I am a little behind in our travel updates so this is my attempt to catch you up and keep Momma happy. Emily has had super feedback on her blog entry and I am trying to convince her that she should take it over but she is not convinced. At first glance Rio Dulce (pronounced Doolsay) is a dirty town with a strip of food and clothing stalls that take up the entire sidewalk leaving it perilous for pedestrians because of the steady stream of Semi trucks, buses, cars and motorcycles. There is so much exhaust you can hardly breath and the thought of eating the food makes me queazy but once you get off the main street the river and marina is quite nice. As we drove into town on the bus we spotted Steve and Logan and it didn't take us long to catch up with them at The Shack a little bar that literally is a shack built over the river. Here we met Captain Guy, a fellow Canadian from North Vancouver, a very interesting chap who has more stories than I could count, at first I was sceptical that any one man could have lived a life so full of adventure but I'm pretty sure after a couple days in his company that no-one could make that stuff up! And a wonder that he ever made it through the 80's without injury or incarceration although I'm not certain about the latter. After our first night hanging out at the shack with new friends it didn't take much to convince us to take an overnight sailing trip on Guys' 45 ft Catamaran joined by two young Dutch girls, Anna and Josca. Our second day we spent taking a local bus out to a place called Finca Paraiso where a hot waterfall spills over into a cool stream forming a natural hot shower, the hottest shower we have found in all of Guatemala. The bus itself was interesting just 15 quetzals to ride each way and a 17 passenger bus with 21 people in it, well actually 20, the ticket taker was riding on the outside of the bus on the running boards, yikes! That combined with the crazy Guatemalan driving scared the crap out of me, I don't understand when you're stopping every few miles to pick up and drop off people the need to pass every vehicle on the road, in this case two loaded dump trucks that would then pass us and we had to repeat the whole scary process again, omg. Our new young friend Logan, being on his way to Utilla, Honduras to get his dive master ticket needed a place to stay on the mainland to catch an early bus the next day so he stayed with us in the extra bunk beds and joined us for a brick oven pizza at the Sundog Cafe. A super nice young guy, we got along very well despite the age differences. I think he would be a great match for Jordan ;) Up early to source out a decent bottle of wine and a few beers for our sailing trip, breakfast at Bruno's and we set sail. Not really, because there was no wind but still we are travelling in style and the sun is shining for the first time in days. Captain Guy, as I said before is a product of the 80's so we had great tunes and fascinating stories all the way up to El Golfette a beautiful bay where we anchor for the night and get out the kayaks. Emily and I ventured out first into the mangrove lined canals on two single kayaks and I would be lying if I didn't admit to mistaking a few floating branches for a crocodile. Although we have been assured that there are none and on the rare occasion the they do show up they don't last long because the locals will turn almost anything into a stew but It would be just my luck that this would be the day.. As we start to relax and enjoy the ride we notice all the birds and plants, the shore is sparsely populated with small shacks that you can just make out through the forest and beautiful bright green lily pads with small funny looking birds that run around on top picking bugs from the flowers. Emily is still a bit nervous but doesn't want to return to the boat because it is "boring", she has become quite fond of the night life of travellers and the attention she attracts, so we head out to open water for a paddle around the bay. After a quick swim to cool off and clean up it is happy hour on the boat and Captain Guy is preparing a feast of grilled ginger teriyaki chicken, veggies, rice and garlic bread. Yum! In the morning we motor down a canyon of limestone cliffs and jungle so thick you can't see the end of it into the small Caribbean town of Livingston. Guy leads us through the town on a quick tour and I have the distinct impression that he doesn't want to stick around, I'm not sure if something bad happened here, the Sunday night football game is calling him back or the authorities are after him, could be a bit of all three. The ride back is uneventful but picturesque with a little rain and Jim and I make a lunch for everyone of the leftovers, I could get used to this. We arrived back at dusk to a difficult anchoring in the bay and Emily is exposed to a few new expletives from Captain Guy. Back at the Shack in time for the last game and a burger we are all exhausted and happy but ready to head out on a relatively short (6 hours) bus ride to Antigua in the morning. I will leave off here as Emily has agreed to write the Antigua entry but she is currently napping as she has been feeling unwell last night and today. We think it may have been the street tacos yesterday, we have all taken our turn adjusting to the food and I am increasingly grateful we took the extra time to bring a well stocked medical bag. Imodium being one of our most prized possessions.. Much love to all our subscribers we are up to 12 now, actually 11 because Mom is on there twice teehee, gotta love the support of Moms, love you Momma xo

Posted by JEK 13:03 Archived in Guatemala Tagged "rio_dulce" "livingston

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love ya back twice as much

by Momma Dawn

Wow...what great adventures you guys! Sounds like you are meeting some amazing people! Looking forward to hearing about your next adventure! Love you and miss you xoxo

by Elli

Sounds like you are all having a great time

by Kim Behrman

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